All about block planes

Choosing, adjusting, and using a block plane. Here’s a full description on this handy tool.

 

Block planes are a great addition to your toolbox and even your toolbelt.  They are ergonomically designed to be used with one hand.  The reason for this is that the block plane was originally used by framers and roofers.  It allowed the carpenter to make fine adjustments to crown molding, window and door framing, and shakes or shingles.  You’ll notice in the video that the woodworker is using both hands. The small knob at the toe of the block plane allows you to have more control and to place more weight on the body of the plane.  This is great when you have a solid workbench or vise. When shingling a roof or holding a piece of molding against your leg, the rounded lever cap and small indentations on the sides of the plane allow you to get a firm, one-handed grip

As the woodworker in the video explains, block planes are not particularly useful for planing a board flat.  This is due to the very short length.  The short sole permits the plane to follow the contours of the board, rather than knocking down the high spots to eventually create a flat surface.  But as a handy tool to create bevels and trim end grain, a block plane is hard to beat. I’ve found that, with a little practice, a block plane can consistently be held at a 45 degree angle and a 22.5 degree angle.  This is great for creating bevels or facets on the edges of stock.

Most lower end block planes have a fairly roughly-machined sole.  Their 35 dollar price tag explains this.  You can easily flatten and smooth the sole of a block plane with a couple sheets of sandpaper and a flat piece of glass.  Be sure to pull the blade back far enough that it won’t contact the sandpaper. It is important to keep the blade tightened in the plane.

Place a 1/3 sheet of 150 grit sandpaper on the plate glass or other very flat surface and rub the plane front to back on the sandpaper.  Periodically check the sole of the plane.  You want to keep sanding the sole until the bottom has a uniform scratch pattern.  Only then should you move on to the next higher grit.  You can move up to 300 or 400 grit for the next step.  This time, water or mineral spirits will help to keep the sandpaper from clogging up.  Once you have a uniform scratch pattern, move up to 500 or 1000 grit sandpaper and repeat the process.

You now have a flat and smooth block plane sole.  Some people do this to the sides as well, but I like to keep them a bit rougher to provide a better grip when using the plane one handed.  Be sure to knock down the sharp edges around the perimeter of the sole.  Since the sole is now raw steel, it can rust almost instantly. I recommend rubbing in a good coat of wax to protect the bare metal and to help the block plane glide across the wood.